Spotlight

The pioneering mastermind behind Anokhi

Mehrin Mubdi Chowdhury indulges in a rendezvous with the celebrated designer Humaira Khan, learning more about the fashion world, patriotism and future plans with her brand.

The name Humaira Khan is well-known and quite popular amongst the fashion enthusiasts of Bangladesh. For the rest, she is a pioneer who initiated a fashion label almost 26 years ago; when it was almost unthinkable for most to even contemplate fashion designing as a profession. 

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Humaira Khan has always been a trend-setter, setting the way for her followers.  "It might sound amusing but necessity actually pulled me towards the intriguing field of design. I was studying International Relations back then and had to go abroad for study or work regularly. But, I always found myself in a fix when assembling suitable outfits, as the choices were extremely limited. Most women had to wear saris, with no other options available. That's when I started designing my own dresses and wore them asregular wear. My friends and family were my first patrons. They loved my dresses so much that they became my first customers and that's how Anokhi was conceived, with a very humble beginning. I feel proud to admit that my patrons have stayed loyal to me for more than two decades. They are the main inspiration behind my work and the major reason I strive to do better every day".

Initiated in 1989, Anokhi began as a branded designer-wear catering to the upscale niche market. "I have worked with Anarkalis and Peshwaz long before they became trendy," says a confident Humaira Khan. The main collections of Anokhi, back in the 90's were high-end couture wear. Today, Anokhi is coming up with fashion lines meant for everyone.  The ready-to-wear collections are reasonably priced, affordable by the masses, amazing and good for wearing to work as well ascasual parties.  "I am very selective about designs" says the beaming Humaira Khan. "I will never compromise on design, be it an affordable range or couture wear, if it's my design, it just has to be perfect". 

When asked how she feels about the recent trend of reviving local materials like Muslin, Jamdani, etc she says," With time, I have realised that patriotism is something that needs to be a part of our everyday lives. We talk a lot about it but how many of us in fact physically strive for it? Muslin, Jamdani, Khadi; these are our heritage, if we do not promote them, who else will?  The rest of the world is gung-ho about their own fabrics and designs and it is about time that we were the same. I use mostly natural tie-dyes; hand- painted designs;embroideries on local fabrics and local motifs in all my designs. I love my country and I would like the rest of the world to know my country through my creations. My latest line, Humaira Khan Creations, highlights the 'Rainbow Colours' inspired by Monsoon and are made completely out of locally sourced materials."

The pioneering mastermind behind Anokhi

Asked whether she had any plans of taking her creations to the international level, she said: "Of course, that's my ultimate dream. What can be more prestigious than seeing one of my creations on the runways of London and Paris? It would be a celebration not only for myself, but for my country as well. I hope to materialise the dream someday, for Bangladesh".

Since Humaira Khan is a maestro of designs, cuts and styling, it was obvious that we would ask her about the recent trends in Bangladesh and what our avid readers should follow.  The passionate designer had great advice for this. "Jackets and capes are well in for the season. So are designer trousers like tulip pants, cigarette pants and harem pants. My suggestion is that these might be trending, but you need to put your own touch to the trends to make yourself stand out amongst the crowd. An easy way could be pairing the capes with western outfits, and opting for naturally-dyed tulips pants, etc," she said.

Asked how she feels about the numerous designer shops sprouting all over Bangladesh, she elaborated: "In Bangladesh, designing, is a field preferred mostly by the women and only a few men. I am all for their empowerment. I will do anything to encourage, especially the women of our society, to be productive and independent. But I would also love to advise them, that being unique is very important, especially in this field of business. If you are downloading designs from the internet and copying others'labour, you are not paying enough respect to your line of work! Designers must place their unique touch to their creations; this is what will set them apart from the rest. They must refrain from steadfast bootlegging and instead make their own signature outfits – maybe inspired from other famous designers, but definitely with some input of their own."

Before ending the session, we had to ask how the designer Humaira Khan contemplated her own creations. "The term 'Anokhi' is a synonym for unique, exclusive, exceptional etc. and as the name suggests my motive was and will always be to design something different, distinctive and unique for my clients. Something that will make them look assertive and trendy on all occasions.  I love experimenting with designs and that's my passion. But, I also carry a deep-rooted respect towards my culture and refrain from designing anything that might hurt sentiments."

Humaira Khan participated in TRESemme Lustrous Runway of 2016. For the fashion conscious population of the country, She is available on social media via her personal page - Humaira Khan @ Facebook. On the platform, she personally gives style suggestions and guidance to her fans.

The pioneering mastermind behind Anokhi

Photo: Shahrear Kabir Heemel 
Model: Jolly and Tania
Wardrobe: Anokhi by Humaira Khan
Make-up: Farzana Shakil's Makeover Salon 
Location: Pan Pacific Sonargaon
for more on TRESemme presents Lustrous 
Runway 2016 See centre, page 12-13