Letter From America
A non-resident Bangladeshi (NRB) spends nine weeks in Bangladesh
During the writer's nine-week sojourn in Bangladesh that ended last week, one of the first questions he faced from relatives, friends and well-wishers was: why have you stopped writing for The Daily Star? As aficionados of conspiracy theories, several came up with their own explanations, which ran the gamut from the CIA placing a gag order on the writer for his anti-Bush rhetoric to the writer having lost all his marbles! The truth will disappoint many readers: there was really no reason! The writer simply needed a break.
Here are some of the writer's personal observations of the several significant events that took place during his stay in Bangladesh.
The Non-resident Bangladeshi (NRB) conference at the Sheraton: Although the writer did not go to Bangladesh to attend the NRB conference, at the request of the organisers he ended up giving two presentations in it. However, the organisers lacked the experience to run a conference professionally. Chaos and mismanagement reigned, and the well-meaning and well-mannered volunteers did not always have the correct answers to a participant's query. It was unusual to restrict the participants to only one seminar at a particular time slot. The effort to tap into the expertise of the NRBs in the cause of Bangladesh is laudable. Attendance-wise the conference was a success.
Several excellent papers were presented. NRBs and resident Bangladeshis (RBs) were justly recognised for their contributions. There was one glaring omission. Professor Abul Hussam of George Mason University, who had won a million dollar grant from the National Science Foundation in the US for his arsenic purification filter which is saving many lives in Bangladesh, and who was a presenter at the NRB conference, was not given an award. The writer gave two presentations: "How to improve Bangladesh's image and promote its interests abroad," and "The importance of an excellent English education in Bangladesh." Over twenty participants took the writer's contact information afterwards, promising to get in touch. None did! Those presenters who could assist participants immigrate to the US were in heavy demand!
Some criticisms have been leveled against the NRB conference at home and abroad. Several advisors, secretaries and generals attended the conference, giving it the appearance of a caretaker government-sponsored conference. The caretaker government is attempting to enlist the support of the NRBs, some complained. Others pointed out that the conference had a distinct Awami League flavour. These allegations may or may not be true. However, an overwhelming majority of the expatriate Bangladeshis feel the same way as the writer does (quoting from something the writer said in his first talk): "Not that I like Awami League or BNP less, but that I love Bangladesh more!"
The most creative name of an eatery: Yan Tun Khai Zan. With the eatery's name painted in seemingly authentic Chinese calligraphy on the van, this vendor, selling fares from a van in front of the Sangshad Bhaban thoroughfare, could not fool those of us who originate from the Feni/Noakhali region. Translated from Noakhalian into Bengali and English, the sign simply says (in proper Bengali, "Ekhaney Kheyae Jaan," or "Please eat from here!"). I would have made it more rhythmic: "Bhaijaan, Yan Tun Khai Jaan!"
Arrests and release of Dhaka University teachers and students: The writer's non-relative professor friends at Dhaka University clearly told him that the army did not want a confrontation with the students and did everything in its power to avoid one. The teachers and students had spent enough time in jail and it was the correct decision to pardon, acquit and release them. One has to ask the Dhaka University teachers though: Is it too much to ask the teachers to concentrate solely on educating their students, rather than attempting to advance the non-academic aspirations of the teachers themselves? Before everybody jumps all over me let me say that as a former student, and teacher of Dhaka University Chemistry Department, I have a right to voice my opinion.
Caretaker government and elections: The caretaker government has a distinctly NRB flavour, people told the writer. Many in the government, such as new advisors former attorney general AF Hassan Ariff, Dr. Hossain Zillur Rahman and Ms. Rasheda K. Choudhury, are persons of impeccable and stellar credentials and integrity. Recently, the caretaker government celebrated one year in office. However, a caretaker government is not supposed to be in office for more than 90 days and is not supposed to formulate policies. Elections must be held as soon as possible; definitely before the end of the year. The popular wisdom is that if free elections are held, the same two leaders and their parties will vie for the honour of forming the next government.
Saddest loss: The passing away of fellow Feni-an, playwright Professor Salem Al Deen of Jahangirnagar University. I have been assured by those who know that the late Professor Selim Al Deen was one of the very best playwrights in the history of the Bengali language.
Best and worst things about Bangladesh: The writer traveled to Faujdarhat and Chittagong, his ancestral home at Fazilerghat near Feni, Kolatia in Keraniganj, Savar and Rajendrapur. Pollution is creeping back into Dhaka. The mid-day sun is hazy. Chittagong, if anything, is even more polluted. There are horrendous traffic jams at Dhaka. No one seems to know or care about traffic rules. Asked whether he understood what the lane dividers were for, a driver replied: "Of course, sir, these are to beautify the road!" On December 17, it took me almost 2 hours to travel from Naya Paltan to Dhanmandi; I could have covered the distance in half an hour on foot! My two trips on the Dhaka-Chittagong highway were scary to say the least. Bus and truck drivers are willing to kill or be killed just to save a few minutes! The country is exceedingly crowded; noise pollution (vehicular and human) is as much of a threat as air pollution. To fight off rampant crime, every house and apartment building has become a mini-fortress!
People are becoming health-conscious in Bangladesh. I saw many people -- male and female, young and old, religious and secular -- walk/run around Dhanmandi lake and Ramna park during my morning jogs. Bangladeshi cuisine is exquisite! Beautiful apartments are sprouting everywhere in Dhaka and major cities. Because of its booming population, Bangladesh may soon turn into a nation of apartments! Serious efforts must be expended to recover land from the Bay of Bengal and effectively double the size of the country! Bangladeshis are bursting with entrepreneurial energy. They will use the smallest plot of land, grow fruits and vegetables and sell them for a profit. The government should get out of the way of these entrepreneurs. We need to educate and train our working class in vocational institutions to make them high-value workers for home and abroad. And, of course, we need to reintroduce excellent English education in Bangladesh and catch up with the rest of the world.
Few differences between the US and Bangladesh: During their US visits, many of our relatives jokingly complain that they cannot sleep at our suburban house because it is so quiet! After nine weeks in Bangladesh, I now see what they mean! As my eldest son was driving me from JFK Airport to our New Jersey home on a Sunday morning, I felt that the air I was breathing was so much cleaner, that there was NO ONE walking anywhere and that the cars were sparse and following traffic rules! Earlier, as I entered the immigration booth, the officer looked at my completed customs declaration form and wondered aloud: "Coming from Bangladesh and not bringing food?" I took that as a compliment to our world-renowned culinary excellence.
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